Rail Romance: Riding the Orient Express

That the train known for decades as the Orient Express still operates today often comes as a surprise to people who might have assumed that, like old-school luxury cruises and leisurely dirigible flights across the Atlantic, this vestige of a vastly different time must have vanished years ago. But the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, as it is officially known, continues to run along many of the same routes that made it so famous so many decades ago, visiting places as far-flung as London, Paris, Venice, Rome, Budapest, Dresden, Prague, Innsbruck and (of course) Istanbul.

Here, LIFE recalls the Orient Express of the last century through photographs made by Jack Birns in 1950—wonderfully evocative, atmospheric pictures from a time when phrases like “the Iron Curtain” and “communist Bulgaria” were not only encountered in history books, but in newspaper headlines and in daily conversation.

A September 1950 issue of LIFE, in which some of the photos in this gallery first appeared, described the Orient Express of the middle part of the last century thus:

To mystery lovers there is no more romantic train in the world than the Orient Express, which runs between Paris and Eastern Europe. The white-haired lady spy of Alfred Hitchcock’s The Lady Vanishes rode the Orient Express, and the crime of Agatha Christie’s Murder in the Calais Coach took place on it. Legend has built the train into a vehicle for skullduggery. But there is, in fact, good basis for its reputation. Only last February, on the Orient Express near Salzburg, Austria, Eugene Karpe, the U.S. naval attaché friend of [prominent American businessman later jailed for espionage in Hungary] Robert Vogeler, fell or was pushed to his death under mysterious circumstances.

The Istanbul train is called the Simplon-Orient because it uses the Simplon Tunnel to pass through the Alps. Americans cannot go all the way as they cannot get visas for Communist Bulgaria, and luxury accommodations are now more limited than in the 1930s. But . . . the trip is still a fascinating ride through a secretive world of diplomats and refugees. It also provides a look at fringes of the Iron Curtain which can be had no other way.

The Simplon-Orient Express alongside Lake Geneva, near historic Chillon Castle.

The Simplon-Orient Express alongside Lake Geneva, near historic Chillon Castle.

Jack Birns/Life Pictures/Shutterstock

Aboard the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Aboard the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Jack Birns/Life Pictures/Shutterstock

Scene from the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Jack Birns/Life Pictures/Shutterstock

Train station along the route of the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Train station along the route of the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Jack Birns/Life Pictures/Shutterstock

Train station along the route of the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Train station along the route of the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Jack Birns/Life Pictures/Shutterstock

In Milan, [a man] hands a diplomatic packet through window.

In Milan, a man handed a diplomatic packet through window.

Jack Birns/Life Pictures/Shutterstock

Aboard the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Aboard the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Jack Birns/Life Pictures/Shutterstock

Train station along the route of the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

A train station along the route of the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Jack Birns/Life Pictures/Shutterstock

Yugoslav inspector makes a passport check as the train nears Bulgarian border. Like other officials in Yugoslavia he has a quasi-military status.

A Yugoslav inspector made a passport check as the train neared the Bulgarian border.

Jack Birns/Life Pictures/Shutterstock

Aboard the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Aboard the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Jack Birns/Life Pictures/Shutterstock

Train station along the route of the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

A train station along the route of the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Jack Birns/Life Pictures/Shutterstock

Rail employee at a station along the route of the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

A rail employee at a station along the route of the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Jack Birns/Life Pictures/Shutterstock

Scene from the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Jack Birns/Life Pictures/Shutterstock

Train station along the route of the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

At Sukovo, in east Yugoslavia, a young Serb held a dog at the station.

Jack Birns/Life Pictures/Shutterstock

Greek soldiers board boxcars at Svilengrad to guard train against Communist marauders who sneak across border from Bulgaria to join Red guerillas in Greece.

Greek soldiers boarded boxcars at Svilengrad to guard the train against Communist marauders who would sneak across the border from Bulgaria to join Red guerillas in Greece.

Jack Birns/Life Pictures/Shutterstock

Scene from the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Jack Birns/Life Pictures/Shutterstock

Train station along the route of the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

A train station along the route of the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Jack Birns/Life Pictures/Shutterstock

Train station along the route of the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

A train station along the route of the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Jack Birns/Life Pictures/Shutterstock

A train station along the route of the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

A train station along the route of the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Jack Birns/Life Pictures/Shutterstock

Aboard the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Aboard the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Jack Birns/Life Pictures/Shutterstock

Aboard the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Aboard the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Jack Birns/Life Pictures/Shutterstock

Aboard the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Aboard the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Jack Birns/Life Pictures/Shutterstock

Aboard the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Aboard the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Jack Birns/Life Pictures/Shutterstock

Train station along the route of the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

A train station along the route of the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Jack Birns/Life Pictures/Shutterstock

Aboard the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Aboard the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Jack Birns/Life Pictures/Shutterstock

Poster for the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Poster for the Simplon-Orient Express, 1950.

Jack Birns/Life Pictures/Shutterstock

‘Two Lives Lost to Heroin’: A Harrowing, Early Portrait of Addicts

 

‘We are animals in a world no one knows’

In February 1965, LIFE magazine published an extraordinary photo essay on two New York City heroin addicts, John and Karen. Photographed by Bill Eppridge, the pictures and the accompanying article, reported and written by LIFE associate editor James Mills were part of a two-part series on narcotics in the United States. A sensitive, clear-eyed and harrowing chronicle of, as LIFE phrased it, “two lives lost to heroin,” Eppridge’s pictures shocked the magazine’s readers and brought the sordid, grim reality of addiction into countless American living rooms.

To this day, Eppridge’s photo essay remains among the most admired and, for some, among the most controversial that LIFE ever published. His pictures and Mills’ reporting, meanwhile, formed the basis for the 1971 movie, Panic in Needle Park, which starred Al Pacino and Kitty Winn as addicts whose lives spin inexorably out of control.

Here, LIFE.com presents Eppridge’s “Needle Park” photo essay in its entirety, as it appeared in LIFE a portrait of two young people who have become, as they themselves put it, “animals in a world no one knows.”

[See more of Bill Eppridge’s work.]

Heroin addicts, New York, photographed by Bill Eppridge

Karen and John were the main subjects of a LIFE story on heroin addiction. Here Karen had her arms around John and his brother, Bro— also an addict—as they lay on a hotel bed.

Bill Eppridge The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Needle Park, LIFE magazine, Feb. 26, 1965

Needle Park, LIFE magazine, Feb. 26, 1965

Needle Park, LIFE magazine, Feb. 26, 1965

Needle Park, LIFE magazine, Feb. 26, 1965

Needle Park, LIFE magazine, Feb. 26, 1965

Needle Park, LIFE magazine, Feb. 26, 1965

Needle Park, LIFE magazine, Feb. 26, 1965

Needle Park, LIFE magazine, Feb. 26, 1965

Needle Park, LIFE magazine, Feb. 26, 1965

Needle Park, LIFE magazine, Feb. 26, 1965

Needle Park, LIFE magazine, Feb. 26, 1965

Needle Park, LIFE magazine, Feb. 26, 1965

Needle Park, LIFE magazine, Feb. 26, 1965

Needle Park, LIFE magazine, Feb. 26, 1965

Needle Park, LIFE magazine, Feb. 26, 1965

Needle Park, LIFE magazine, Feb. 26, 1965

More Like This

lifestyle

The Hot Rod Life

lifestyle

Reality Radio Challenge: Keeping Your Mouth Shut For $1000

lifestyle

LIFE’s Big Look the Beauty Industry, 1956

lifestyle

Michael Rougier and the Beauty of An Oklahoma Square Dance

lifestyle

Joseph Pilates: When the Fitness Guru Trained an Opera Legend

lifestyle

A Tribute to Couplehood